The baked potato is the American dinner table's best friend. Its simple russet base will take whatever toppings you want and go wherever you want it to go. Unfortunately for vegans, they taste best slathered in butter, covered in melted cheddar cheese, dolloped with sour cream, and sprinkled with bits of bacon. Enter Papas Hot Potatoes, a restaurant that might be the city's first vegan baked potato bar. You can either build your own baked potato out of more than a dozen toppings or choose one of their signature papas. There's the American Gothic ($6), with bacon chips, chives, and sour cashew cream; the Mona ($9), with New Mexico green chili, jalapeños, and aioli; the Scream ($9), with red chili, vegan cheese, pickled onions, and chives; and the Papas Grande, which is two potatoes and includes all the toppings ($16). LESTER BLACK